After exploring the world of laboratory-grown diamonds and natural diamonds, it’s time to delve into the fundamentals of diamond quality and value through the universally accepted standards known as the 4 C’s: carat weight, color, clarity, and cut. Let’s break them down.

carat weight

Carat weight is perhaps the most well-known of the 4 C’s, often abbreviated as "ct" or "ctw." It refers to the unit of measurement used to describe the apparent weight of a diamond or other gemstones.

In diamond jewelry, carat weight is typically measured in "points." There are 100 points in one carat, so a diamond weighing 0.75 carats can also be described as 75 points. This system allows for precise measurements, especially for smaller diamonds where fractions of a carat can make a significant difference in value and appearance.

How did the carat system start?

According to GIA (Gemological Institute of America, carat weight started with the carob seed, when early gem traders used the small, uniform seeds as counterweights in their balance scales. Today, the carat is the same milligram weight in every corner of the world.

Color

The diamond color scale is crucial for distinguishing colorless to brown or yellow diamonds. This scale, developed to standardize diamond grading, ranges from D (colorless) to Z (light yellow or brown). The levels of the color scale are broken down further into colorless, near colorless, faint, very light, and light. Generally, the less color a diamond exhibits, the higher its grade and value. However, certain colors like pink or blue can demand a higher price.

Diamond grading involves assessing color using "Master Color Comparison Diamonds, or master stones, to ensure accuracy. These stones represent the least amount of color in each grade range. Diamonds are compared to these master stones, with the final grade determined by having less color than the diamond on the right and the same or slightly more color than the master on the left. For instance, if a diamond falls between F and G, it has less color than G but more than E, resulting in a final grade of F. (if this explanation is confusing, referring to the picture below can provide a great visual explanation).

Why does the color grading system start with the letter D?

According to GIA, “Before the development of the D-Z Color Grading Scale, a variety of other systems were loosely applied. These included letters of the alphabet (A, B and C, with multiple A’s for the best stones), Arabic (0, 1, 2, 3) and Roman (I, II, III) numerals, and descriptions such as “gem blue” or “blue white.” The result of all these grading systems was inconsistency and inaccuracy. Because the creators of the GIA Color Scale wanted to start fresh, without any association with earlier systems, they chose to start with the letter D—a letter grade normally not associated with top quality.”

CLARITY

Clarity evaluates the presence of internal flaws (inclusions) and external blemishes. Factors considered include the size, number, location, relief, and nature of these imperfections. The Gemological Institute of America (GIA) grades clarity from flawless (no inclusions or blemishes visible at 10x magnification) to Included (I1 or I2), where inclusions are visible to the naked eye. Clarity significantly influences a diamond's brilliance, fire, and sparkle.

The GIA Diamond Clarity Scale has 6 categories, some of which are divided, for a total of 11 specific grades.

• Flawless (FL) No inclusions and no blemishes visible under 10x magnification

• Internally Flawless (IF) No inclusions visible under 10x magnification

• Very, Very Slightly Included (VVS1 and VVS2) Inclusions so slight they are difficult for a skilled grader to see under 10x magnification

• Very Slightly Included (VS1 and VS2) Inclusions are observed with effort under 10x magnification, but can be characterized as minor

• Slightly Included (SI1 and SI2) Inclusions are noticeable under 10x magnification

• Included (I1, I2, and I3) Inclusions are obvious under 10x magnification which may affect transparency and brilliance.

cut

Often regarded as the most crucial factor, the cut determines a diamond’s fire, brilliance, and overall beauty. To evaluate diamond cut grades, gemologists typically use specialized instruments and grading systems established by reputable organizations such as the Gemological Institute of America (GIA) or the American Gem Society (AGS). These grading systems assess various aspects of the diamond's cut, including its proportions, symmetry, polish, and overall light performance, to assign a grade that reflects its quality and beauty. Cut refers to a diamond’s quality of cutting and polishing rather than its physical shape. Diamonds are graded on a relative scale from Excellent to Poor. The following are factors used to evaluate the quality and beauty of diamonds.

1. Proportions: The proportions of a diamond refer to the relationship between the various dimensions of the stone, such as the table size, crown height, pavilion depth, and overall depth.

2. Symmetry: Evaluates the uniformity and precision of facet alignment, crucial for even light reflection and optimal brilliance.

3. Polish: Determines the smoothness of the diamond's surface, ensuring unhindered light passage for enhanced brilliance.

4. Brilliance: Reflects the diamond's ability to sparkle by effectively redirecting light through precise proportions and facet alignment.

5. Fire: Describes the rainbow-colored flashes visible when light is refracted within the diamond, adding to its visual appeal.

6. Scintillation: Refers to the dynamic pattern of light and dark areas resulting from light interaction with the diamond's facets, contributing to its overall beauty and allure.

The secret “5th c”

Another crucial consideration, often referred to as the secret “5th C”, is cost. Your budget plays a significant role in any purchasing process. Finding a balance between affordability, personal style, and satisfaction can be challenging. Remember, a diamond’s true value lies not only in its physical properties but also in the joy it brings.

Next week, we will explore the enchanting world of colored diamonds and unveil fascinating facts about other gemstones found alongside diamonds.