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Natural Diamonds: From Mine to Market PART 2

The journey of a diamond from its raw, unrefined state to its cut and polished final state showcases a process of expertise, precision, and craftsmanship. We continue our discussion on what happens next in the process by delving into the world of diamond processing, sorting, and cutting.

WHAT HAPPENS NEXT?

After being mined, rough diamonds undergo an extremely meticulous sorting and evaluation process. Skilled Gemologists assess each diamond determining gem quality, near gem quality, or industrial quality. The rough’s shape, clarity, color, and potential as a faceted diamond are evaluated. All of these are factors in what shape and size a diamond is cut into.

The cutting process carefully considers the size, shape, and internal characteristics of the rough diamond to determine how to enhance its beauty. Whether it's a timeless round brilliant cut, a captivating princess cut, or a distinctive fancy shape, each diamond is expertly crafted to meet the highest standards of beauty and quality.

What is the cutting process?

Throughout the multistep process, skilled artisans, known as diamond cutters, use precision tools and stringent techniques to ensure consistency and precision is maintained. The following steps are involved in the cutting process:

  • Planning - Assessing rough to determine optimal cut.

  • Cleaving/Sawing - Depending on the shape or size, the diamond is either cleaved or sawed into smaller pieces.

  • Bruting - The diamond undergoes initial shaping using a rotating wheel.

  • Faceting - Facets (flat surfaces), are cut to maximize and enhance the sparkle and brilliance. Facets act as tiny mirrors to reflect light and create the sparkle diamonds are known for. The number and arrangement of facets varies based on shape and cut of the diamond.

  • Polishing - Polishing removes any surface imperfections to enhance its shine.

  • Inspection - Inspected to ensure it meets quality standards.

If the diamond passes inspection, it may then undergo certification and grading by a reputable gemological lab. This process instills confidence in its quality and authenticity for consumers, who can then choose to purchase it either loose or already set in jewelry.

HOW HARD ARE DIAMONDS?

Diamonds are the hardest material on earth, measuring at a 10 on the Mohs scale of hardness. The Mohs scale measures the relative hardness of a gem or mineral, indicating its resistance to scratching and the ability of one gem or mineral to scratch another. The Mohs scale is qualitative and measures relative hardness. Diamonds with a rating of 10, are 58 times harder than corundum (sapphire), the next hardest mineral. While diamonds are extremely hard, they are not indestructible. It's important not to confuse hardness with toughness, as toughness refers to a gem's resistance to breaking, chipping, and cracking.

Understanding the characteristics of diamonds, like their hardness and toughness, is crucial for consumers and jewelers. It guides decisions on diamond care, maintenance, and usage in jewelry design.

HOW DO I KNOW MY DIAMOND IS ETHICALLY SOURCED?

In recent years there has been significant information that has focused on so-called “conflict diamonds” or “blood diamonds.” These diamonds were trafficked through illegal channels to fund armed war groups, insurgencies and armed conflicts, particularly during civil wars in regions such as Angola, Sierra Leone, and the Democratic Republic of Congo.

To combat the problem of conflict diamonds, the diamond industry in coalition with governmental and non-governmental organizations, established the Kimberley Process in 2002. This initiative was pivotal in regulating the export and import of rough diamonds, ensuring they originate from conflict-free areas. Currently, it is estimated that 99% of diamonds available in the marketplace are certified as conflict-free.

Significant strides have been made by industry members to eliminate the trade of conflict diamonds. It’s important to acknowledge that the diamond industry still faces challenges in ensuring ethical sourcing practice across the supply chain. In an era focused on sustainability and supply-chain transparency, many companies have pledged to uphold responsible sourcing standards, with a particular focus on artisanal miners who have historically been marginalized in the industry.

HOW CAN I BE A CONCERNED CONSUMER AND BUY A NATURAL DIAMOND?

Today, consumers have the opportunity to make informed decisions and support ethically sourced diamonds. Responsible jewelers go beyond ensuring conflict-free sourcing; they also educate consumers about the diamond's journey from mine to market. Consumers can determine if they have chosen a jeweler that prioritizes ethical standards and fair-trade practices by asking relevant questions about sourcing and supplier initiatives.

Through various initiatives and partnerships, many large mining companies and diamond industry partners demonstrate their commitment to ethical sourcing and community development. These initiatives are often launched near mining sites to enhance local livelihoods, with a focus on healthcare, environmental conservation, and education. By supporting jewelers committed to ethical practices and community welfare, consumers play a significant role in ensuring a bright future for the environment and individuals affected by diamond mining operations.